PRAMA by Pratima Pandey, Tanvi Kedia, Anand Bhushan, Dev R Nil, Pallavi Mohan and Hemant & Nandita
Prama by Pratima Pandey | Taking inspiration from the Indian Summer Wedding, designer Pratima Pandey showcased ‘The Melody Affair’ at the Amazon India Fashion Week Spring-Summer 2016. The shapes were light and breezy (long tunics, full-skirts, flared pants in 100% silk Chanderi) with simple cuts, perfect for the Indian summer. “The whole collection was inspired by the Roccoco movement, a special painting ‘The Swing’ by Fregonard,” said the designer after the show. The colors were lifted from the painting, a beautiful symphony of pastels, whites and off-whites with delicate floral embroidery (a mix of shadow work, Dabka, Ari and Parsi). The designer aims to target not only the bride for the wedding but also for everybody celebrating with her.
Tanvi Kedia | Designer Tanvi Kedia’s Spring/Summer 2016 presentation ‘Wandertribe’ was rich in folkloric interpretation with vintage elements and multi-hued embroidery. “We pick a destination and take inspiration from its textiles, trinkets, from the place itself. This time, it was Morocco and other Islamic countrues in Asia,” the designer said after the show.
Silk chanderi by Pratima Pandey for an Indian summer wedding. Moroccan espadrilles by Tanvi Kedia. Sporty chic’s glam makeover at Anand Bhushan. Dev R Nil’s nude color separates. Pallavi Mohan’s denim yoke organza shirts. Hemant & Nandita’s flower-power
Hence, the prints used were inspired by embroidered textiles, such as Moroccon cross-stitch. The designer made a conscious decision to convert the embroidery into print so that the pieces are easily affordable and wearable.
The shapes were light-weight (cotton, lightweight silks and chiffons) and the embroideries were kept minimal for a summer wardrobe. So one could spot a little use of resham, light threadwork, tiny beads and sequinned embroidery. Looking at the designs, one could see a little influence of Gujarat, Tanvi’s home state.
The main highlight of the show were ankle-strap espadrilles worn by all the models. Talking about them, the designer explained, “We have used Moroccan textile for the shoes. It was a dying craft and we got it machine embroidered to get the feel of the textile. The shoes are washable and very much wearable.”
Anand Bhushan. The game of tennis gets a chic sartorial makeover with georgettes, silk and jersey knit. A continuous sound of a tapping ball was heard reverberating in the main show area while the guests were being seated. The runway was laid with a green grass carpet and small tennis balls were kept on the edge. One could gauge that the collection would be the sports-inspired ‘DEUCE’. The models strutted on the ramp wearing white visors and running shoes.
The shapes were inspired from athleisure with thigh-slit maxi dresses, geometric cuts, iridescence, polo T-shirt dresses and pleated skirts. The color palette was true to its Wimbledon roots with ivory, sap green and gamboge. The designer was motivated to create a refined delicacy with a tough material like leather. The surface techniques were beautifully balanced with the sheer presence of organza.
Classic herringbone graphics, strips woven together in custom-shaped panels, and iridescent element made a noteworthy appearance on the runway. The whole collection defined the scenario of a high tea party on tennis grounds. Cheers!
Dev R Nil. Known for their classic straight silhouettes and experiments with textiles, designers Dev R Nil’s presentation was a treat to watch. They have infused the culture of 60’s with their designs. The color story moved from nudes to black and a spot of mango yellow.
Textures inspired from nature, floral and foliage prints, lace work and applique embroidery were the highlights of the collection. The silhouettes comprised of graphic lines, embroidered sarees, panelled dresses and flared trousers. The nude color presentation consisted of wearable separates and could become a major trend in the spring-summer.
Pallavi Mohan. As promised, Pallavi Mohan’s presentation was a ‘Kaleidoscope’ of colorful shapes and ‘not so serious’ denim. The silhouettes comprised of signature shirt dresses with drape extensions, cropped jackets, embellished long skirts, sheer bomber jacket culottes and flared pants. The USP of the collection is basic, wearable separates with the use of interesting surface textures. The result: Laser-cut 3D metallic star contour on organzas, hand-appliqued laser cut patchwork on a skirt hem, layering and denim weaving on yokes, and sequinned collars.
The designer used sheer fabrics and organza for this collection, which is becoming a signature for the label. The highlight of the show was a long organza jacket draped over a dress, which could become a major trend.
Hemant & Nandita. The designers took inspiration from the 60’s and a ‘Summer of ‘69’ it truly was. Hemant and Nandita consistently run in par with the international market in terms of trends. Last season (A/W 2015), it was the much acclaimed folklore and this time they decided to go with a Retro collection. Designer Nandita Raipurani of the label talked to us about her inspiration, “The research that I undertook pushed me to do something different. We wanted to do something powerful and that is when I came across flower-power.”
The designer duo presented an amalgamation of flower power and the Swinging Sixties. The Sixties’ influence could be easily spotted in mod dresses, shorter hemlines, pant-suits, long sleeveless coats, buttoned-up skirts and A-line shapes. The designs were colorful with bog flower motifs and the use of acid colors.
So was it a conscious decision to compete with the international market in terms of trends. Designer Nandita explains, “We don’t design for a specific store. But we definitely look at international trends when designing our collection because our main focus is on selling. Our clothes do very well internationally, in comparison to the domestic market, which explains the strong connect in terms of trends.”
What seemed like floral prints on the runway, on closer inspection, were actually intricate machine embroidered flowers. For accessories, the designers went for mini box trunks, fringed jewellery, broad suede belts and gladiator sandals. Also interesting to see were the in-house retro sunglasses in pop colors.
Interestingly, Nandita shares, “Initially, we were thinking of a desert safari theme. As we began the process, we didn’t feel too confident and decided to change it. We therefore had only 4-5 months to design the whole collection.”
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