NEW YORK FASHION WEEK S/S 2016

The recently concluded New York Fashion Week had many firsts. Givenchy switched venues from Paris to New York; the main venue for all the shows was moved from Lincoln Center to Downtown; and it’s now called the New York Fashion Week: the Shows. Here is a review of all things American for Spring/Summer 2016

Marc Jacobs chose the Ziegfield theatre to showcase his latest offering for Spring/Summer 2016. Drawing heavily from the color palette of Uncle Sam and his army, Jacobs’ collection was full-blown Americana in your face. Red, white and blue was prominently spotted on the runway with wisps of power shoulders, floaty silhouettes, and dramatic face prints. Fringes were conspicuously sewn in with the sleeves of a jacket, shoulders of a vest, or just swished with the model’s waist. The collection featured pinstriped suits, midi skirts, plunging necklines and bare legs.

Speaking of Americana, Ralph Lauren’s nautical-inspired collection heavily featured (no hints for this one!) STRIPES-that too in blue and white-in all sizes. The color palette moved from blue and white to all-white, tan, a bold dash of scarlet and concluded with the sailor’s shades again. A crisp white shirt tucked into white pants, a sweater hung over a striped shirt, captain’s hat, straw bags, tan double-breasted blazer, and evening dresses in cotton were the highlights.

Rodarte’s collection could easily be termed as a seamless fusion of the 70s decade and Victorian era. The collection showcased lots of velvet, lace, crochet and fur, all bound in a color palette of black, white and some shimmer. There were Victorian lace collars, slinky scarves, knee-length boots and silk fringing.

Looking at mixing eras, have a look at Michael Kors collection, which featured utilitarian, androgynous shapes mixed with feminine, ruffled pieces. All of this was seen in a neutral color palette of spring.

Calvin Klein’s slip dresses defined the fashion of the 90s. This season, Francisco Costa refreshed the brand’s signature piece in luxe colors (silver, champagne, and white) and deconstructed patterns. The color palette was muted and refined with some floral photo prints splashed here and there (duster coats, jumpsuits, even plimsolls). The collection featured some easy, relaxed shapes offering a hint of romanticism.

Classics were also redefined at Diane Von Furstenberg’s show – Fortvna (also her 40th anniversary of the wrap dress). We saw the iconic dress in a quirky mix of prints, a belted jacket in metallic lamé, evening dresses in chiffon, and an ode to heritage with the one-shoulder silhouette.

Tommy Hilfiger took everyone on a trip to the Caribbean’s, and a reinvented wardrobe of Bob Marley. The show venue was designed with a pier runway complete with a hammock and beach shack. The models strutted around in colorful beanies, beach bags, mesh vests, multi-colored dresses and knitted forms.

Also noteworthy was Zac Posen’s signature collection of easy silhouettes featuring cotton sundresses, tent-shaped jackets, and lace dresses. Proenza Schouler’s collection of deconstructed shapes, asymmetrical hemlines, and a neutral color palette reminded us of a refined Spanish inspiration.

Alexander Wang did what he does best at his 10th-anniversary showcase, with a streetwear-inspired collection of sneakers, mesh and-of course!-a hoodie. Also seen were silk pajamas, and slip dresses.

One down, three more to go! Stay tuned to check out our reports on London, Milan, and Paris.