The Fall/Winter 2016 runways saw folklore, patent leather, the 80s era came back as a big trend | Androgyny also fired the imagination
The Fall/Winter 2016 runways was an eclectic mix of Gothic streaks from New York, folk inspiration from London, quilted forms at Paris and sombre androgyny at Milan. Here is a look at the report.
To Eighties, androgyny and beyond! The retreating 70’s spirit has paved way for high octane 80’s glamour. Patent leather, metallic and oversized silhouettes were all reminiscent of the decade. Chanel’s quilted bomber jackets, leather pants, and roll-neck knits; JW Anderson’s slouchy blousons and lame dresses; Saint Laurent’s groupies with cut-out leather jeggings, biker jackets and tulle dresses.
In London, Christopher Bailey for Burberry took the crown with his love for folk art and handwork (unlike Burberry, which is known for its tailored pieces). Patchwork florals with Moroccan style embroidery, giant mirrored embellishments, and heavy fringes on Burberry’s new bucket bag, were the highlights of the show. Dries Van Noten mixed folkloric inspirations (gilding, brocade and sequins) with easy silhouettes (cotton chinos and velvet trousers), to elucidate the luxe wanderer. Lanvin also took to Morocco for inspiration with tassels, gypsy dresses, embroidered tunics and feathered skirts.
Patent leather is having a major moment this season, besides patchwork and wisps of shimmer.
Alessandro Michele’s collection for Gucci was the most anticipated showcase of the season. True to Michele’s style, casual tailoring with oddly placed creases, and trouser suits were paired with buckled moccasin flats. Androgynous accents were also spotted at DVF with pinstripe separates, strong suits and at Ralph Lauren with tuxedo-inspired pieces.
A love for detail | Patchwork was seen in bits and carefully woven pieces, all over the runways. Chloé’s woven printed panels in 70s style ponchos and floor-length dresses; Fendi’s patchwork in rectangular geometric prints and Moschino’s denim patched with gold was much talked about.
Capes are having a major moment this season. Emilio Pucci’s duster capes with astronomical prints; Versace’s 60’s mod version, Kenzo’s poncho-shaped capes, and Michael Kors’ caped coats with slashed sleeves.
Wisps of shimmer had been sprinkled on the fall runways. Marc Jacobs’ ode to Diana Vreeland was highlighted with metallic brocades, sheath and column dresses glittering with sequins. The predictable Balmain glamour was seen in flared trousers, glossy leather and vibrant shades.
And finally, essentials of the season, fur and unconventional quilting was used in the most exciting ways possible. Frontrunners in the trend were Dior’s fur shift dresses, emerald fur at Versace, Dolce and Gabbana’s fur earcuffs, Max Mara’s quilted pencil skirts, fur-lined and quilted parkas, and fur stoles at New York’s shows.
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