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YOUR DE RIGUEUR SCOOP OF DECADENT FASHION THAT SWEPT THE RUNWAY ON THE LAST THREE DAYS OF INDIA COUTURE WEEK

Fashion

A lowdown of the collections graced at the couture week runway

India Couture Week 2019 organised by FDCI in partnership with Hindustan Times took up the gauntlet of reimagining Indian bridal wear with a European lens. Lehengas with cascading trails, encrusted mosaic crystals, french-flora inspired embroidery, veiled dupattas, and largely muted colour palettes ruled the runway this season. But don’t confuse this medley of western with Indian as a loss of Indian heritage. In fact, all the designers paid homage to Indian craftsmanship through their elaborate design technicalities and honestly, it couldn’t have got any better. Let’s peep through this interesting journey of how the designers alchemised the old world charm with modernity.

From Malhausi to Monaco with Rahul Mishra

Rahul Mishra’s collections have put India on the global couture map like never before! After giving an uber-fresh, spellbinding performance at the Paris Couture Week, all eyes awaited the designer’s ICW masterpiece which is inspired by his birthplace Malhausi, Uttar Pradesh and his recent design trip escapade to Monaco, France. And woah! He did raise the bar to another level for all the designers to follow! It was magnificent – bouquets and sprigs of flora were embroidered onto undyed organza and crepe silks in the most intricate form. The designer expressed that they were inspired by the undergrown wild foliage from his birthplace and Monaco’s architectural facades. Interestingly, Mishra was heard quoting that “It took about 2 years of research and development to bring this collection out. It was a labour intensive project which required an investment of nearly 2 crores as we make sure our artisans are compensated well” during the Conscious Effort Panel discussion conducted at The Imperial, New Delhi on July 27.

Photo credits: Rahul Mishra

Sulakshana Monga’s ‘Cultural Cascade’

Doesn’t Malaika Arora look like a painting in Monga’s green showstopper ensemble? She ought to, given that the couturier drew inspiration from the incredible sunset views of the iconic ghats of Banaras. The unmissable cascading trail lehenga was etched in woven calligraphy, temple idols, and flowers that are originally found across the holy city. The colourful collection was extremely beguiling and we can only imagine how many hands and minds came together to recreate Varanasi in this opulent embodiment! Have a look at the fuschia pieces in the ‘Cultural Cascade’ collection if your dream is to be dolled-up in rani pink colour on your big day!

Photo credits: Sulakshana Monga

Up close with Shyamal & Bhumika’s ‘Renaissance Muse’

The Ahmedabad-based designer duo of Shyamal & Bhumika Shodhan dreamed up an entire collection based on an intriguing question that what if India was the epicentre of the Renaissance? The onlookers who entertained their experimental thought were in for a vivid ride through a palatial world with a set consisting of European public courts, patterned balconies, and resplendent furniture. Still, they managed to keep their design inspirations absolutely fuss-free yet vast in scope. Panelled raw silk lehengas in beige tones bejewelled with colourful silk thread embroidery, glass pipes, sequins, and shimmer inspired by beautiful frescos, florals, and water-colour paintings graced the ramp as showstopper Kriti Sanon walked down the runway. If you hear wedding bells anytime soon, then you and your special someone may choose to get dressed in their coordinated looks!

Photo credits: Shyamal & Bhumika

On an African Savannah with Reynu Tandon

Designer Reynu Tandon’s ‘Savannah Saga’ was a departure from all things European and deserves a special mention as it was more inspired by her road trip from Las Vegas to Los Angeles than it was by the images of Africa. The easy-breezy satin and chanderi lehengas laden with contemporary gotta-patti work made their way down the runway against a backdrop of wild ferns. Rakul Preet Singh donned the final look hued in pink and purple. The actress mentioned cheekily that if it were up to her she would wear a t-shirt with shorts on her wedding day but since that’s not possible, she would love to wear something like her couture week look!

Photo credits: Reynu Tandon

Feeling the ‘Undercurrent’ of Gaurav Gupta’s Designs

Sculptor Gaurav Gupta has wowed us time and again with his commendable work of wearable art. This time at India Couture Week he sent down a collection of bold pieces defining ‘sculpting’ as the science of couture on the runway. Inspired by the concentricity of the ocean’s rhythm, he let the waves and drapes of the garments shine through. He also launched ‘Gaurav Gupta Occasions Fine Jewellery’ consisting of 50 purist pieces on completing 15 years in the fashion industry. The Undercurrent show had not one but two showstoppers! Philanthropist Dia Bhupal opened the show in an understated white co-ord ensemble with an off-shoulder neckline, while actress Diana Penty closed the show as an embodiment of a sea goddess in a shimmering silver gown! The collection is perfect for a bride and her bridesmaids who won’t shy away from looking like heavenly sculptures themselves!

Photo credits: Gaurav Gupta

Spotting Blooms at the Tarun Tahiliani Finale

Master couturier Tarun Tahiliani somehow managed to satisfy his old fans and the millennial generation with a stroke of genius once again. He admitted that he still believed that modernity and age-old tradition customs need to go hand-in-hand on one’s big day. He added that the new collection is made without compromising functionality which is central to the modern bride and groom since their priority is to enjoy their wedding day. The feather-light couture collection was replete with Kashida aka Resham embroidery, french knots, tulle, and burned jali. The glamorous ombre beading fetched the designer thunderous rounds of applause for his clever use of Swarovski! A few embroidered looks in shades of deep red and purple inspired by the bloom and metamorphosis of flowers stood out amidst the sea of pastel designs. Clearly, the veteran knows how to appease both the maximalists and minimalists! And of course, his show did not have a showstopper as he stated that he wouldn’t want a celebrity taking away the focus from the garments constructed painstakingly over the course of several months.

Photo credits: Tarun Tahiliani

With that, the Indian Couture Week 2019 takes our leave until next time – but this week-long celebration of Indian craftsmanship has absolutely set a distinct tone for the upcoming bridal season. Come this November, add a few key pieces to up your wedding game while you downplay the pomp and make textile techniques the cynosure of all eyes. Trust these ace couturiers to make you feel like ‘yourself’ for the most important occasions of your life!



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